At any given time I have between 25 & 35 hedgehogs plus babies so I guess I'm in the latter category plus. :lol: Half of these hedgehogs are rescues and I took in more rescues last year than we had babies. Just as a note to those that might think otherwise, I DO NOT breed rescues or rehomes. I am a rescue contact for the Hedgehog Welfare Society as well as an IHA rescue.rdobbie23 said:but figured I would ask others that own one or two or ten to help me out!
Do you have other hedgehogs? If so, you will need an area as far away from the others to quarantine the newcomer for a month or depending on the circumstances and condition of the hedgehog, possibly longer.
I recommend getting as much information as possible about the hedgehog. Ask what food it is currently eating and roughly how much per day, age, any past illnesses, where it came from, temperature it is used to and if it is temperature sensitive, If it's been treated for mites recently etc. Of course if it is a true rescue situation you probably won't find out much if anything.
Give the hedgehog a visual inspection when it arrives. Look at it nose, eyes, ears and watch for any mucous, sneezing, signs of irritation. Any bald or thinning patches, dry skin or scratching which could indicate mites. Try and get an accurate weight.
Some people give baths immediately, I don't unless the hedgehog is dirty or smells and is in need of a bath. Baths add stress to an already stressful situation so unless it's needed, I usually wait a few days.
Depending on the condition of the hedgehog, a vet visit might be needed. If there is any signs of respiratory infection, it needs to see a vet immediately as you won't know how long it's been sick.
Unless you know for sure if the hedgehog used a bowl or a bottle, provide both. If you know the food it was on, continue with that food. Count the kibble you give so you can be certain it is eating and how much. Since the summer just about every rescue and rehome I've taken in has gone on a hunger strike and needed to be syringe fed. Without counting the kibble you cannot accurately tell how much food it is eating. The first night, put some counted kibble loose in it's bed. Often if they are scared they won't get up to eat but they will eat if it's right there with them.
Remember you will need at least 72F and possibly more plus 12-14 hours of light which at this time of year means leaving a light on near the cage.
Have a look at my website for some more care info. http://www.freewebs.com/thehedgieden/
If you have any questions, just ask.