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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

So ive decided to create a new home for my hedgehog, something nice and roomie.

This is my draft, let me know what you think. My dad builds log houses for a living and is gonna help make it looks real nice :) even with little trusses to support the level :)

 

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The only thing I would be worried about would be him falling off the ramps or trying to jump off of them. How wide and how high is it going to be? and what are you making it out of? Will you be able to see into it? How will the ventilation be on the lower levels?

It looks like a good idea though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the ramps are about 8-10 inches wide, the sidewalls and bottom will be made of wood, front and top of cage wire with 6inch bottom wood aswell. the front cage wire will open as the door so that i can access any part of the cage.

also each level will have borders so he cant "fall" off unless he does jump...

for the height, the total height of the cage is 2.5 feet so each level is abotu 1 foot.
 

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You may want to rethink the wood. Just because if your hedgie ever gets mites, it will be very hard to treat it, as the mites would hide in the wood. Thats the big reason why most people don't use wooden cages.

Make sure the borders are well above his head level, as they do get curious and try to climb...They can stretch pretty tall...My hedgie can climb out of the sink, which is well above his head level. If the sink wasn't slippery, he'd probably make it out and over. So that's something to think about as well.
 

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the easiest thing to do about remedying a jumping hog is to put carpenter mesh stuff (i forget the technical name, haven't used it in so long) and just put it all the way up to stop him from being able to get out.

Use this whenever there is a space he could fall out, use it as a wall.

Instead of wood you may want to consider using a C&C cage, or it you want a decorative piece, use wood and line the inside with seamless coroplast. After it is lines you can fill in all the spaces with ****ing and this will stop anything from getting behind the coroplast. (I wouldn't fasten it to the wood, jsut use it as a wall liner for each floor/section so that it is removable and cleanable)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
azyrios said:
the easiest thing to do about remedying a jumping hog is to put carpenter mesh stuff (i forget the technical name, haven't used it in so long) and just put it all the way up to stop him from being able to get out.

Use this whenever there is a space he could fall out, use it as a wall.

Instead of wood you may want to consider using a C&C cage, or it you want a decorative piece, use wood and line the inside with seamless coroplast. After it is lines you can fill in all the spaces with ****ing and this will stop anything from getting behind the coroplast. (I wouldn't fasten it to the wood, jsut use it as a wall liner for each floor/section so that it is removable and cleanable)
yeah thats probly best, coroplast that is.

Althought if the wood was properly stained and warnished, wouldnt that stop mites..?

such as this cage: http://thistle-hedgehogs.webs.com/SUC52662[2].jpg

Also for mites, i do not own any cats that go outside or use any wood for bedding...
 

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I'm not sure about the properly stained and varnished wood. Will have to get someone more knowledgeable's opinion on it. I don't work with wood, so I don't know how it would be once properly treated.

I just stay away from wood in general, especially I like to soak everything, including the cage bottom and any toys, and his igloo with antibacterial soaps and water, and then rinse with vinegar and water, every week or so, so using wood for anything isn't logical for me. *Oh ya, and forgot to add that I clean and soak his wheel daily as well. And I'm paranoid about mites, because they tend to show up whether there are outside causes or not, usually when the hedgie's immune system is down for whatever reason. So I like a clean cage ^_^
You also have to remember that hedgies poop when they start ambling and walking around more, and could easily leave poops on the wooden ramps as well, which you can clean, but how well can you disinfect? I guess I just personally feel that I can clean plastics better than wood. ^_^
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah i see what your saying.


i work at a place that uses acrylic a lot which is like a plexiglass.

so i might get soem Clea acrylics and put in the inside so that

1. you can still see the wood design
2. the wood is covered

that would probly work well dont you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I also have another question.


I know that using Cedar shavings are bad and everything but what about using them as walls.. would it still be toxic?

If so, what wood would you guys recommend?

Pine...Oak...Maple?

thx
 

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cedar gives off its toxic smell (whatever chemical it is, i'm to lazy to look ti up) whether it is in shavings or not.

I have a cedar sauna in my basement and the solid planks still give off the fragrance after 2 years (they were probably treated to ahve a special "fragrance" but i would still not use cedar.)

Oak would be a nice looking wood, and i have not read anything bout being dangerous. If anything you could stain it darker to look like cedar if you wanted to before applying a clear acrylic.
 

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I would avoid pine and cedar unless it has been dried to remove the phenols. They are really harsh on respiratory systems.
 

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Wood is ok to use as long as it is either varnished or painted. Don't use cedar though. Any wood that you would use would have been kiln dried anyways so pine is fine. Don't use chip board as that gives off a horrid smell and there are too many cracks and crevasses for urine and feces to get trapped.

I have two wooden cage units. One is melamine shelving, the other is plywood painted with white varathane. I love the white varathane surface as far as durability goes but it took forever to off gas and this was done in the middle of summer and it was aired outside. It also yellowed within a couple of months and is no longer white.

Make sure both ramps and levels have a full height barrier. They will climb over low walls so they need to be full height. Ramps need to be a shallow angle and non slip easily cleaned surface. Make sure the ramp is easily removable as ramps are second only to wheels as the preferred place to potty.

Also keep in mind you might go to all this work and hedgie may not use the levels. Some love levels, others will not use them no matter what. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hi nancy!

thanks for the reply...

if you have a pic of your setup, i would love to see it!

thx!
Tim
 
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