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Old 10-28-2018, 06:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default is he trying to hibernate/ what do i do?

alfred has slowly stopped eating over the course of a week or so. he still eats he’s treats so we assumed he was maybe getting bored of his regular food or something. today he’s got no energy, he seems quite cold and now he doesn’t even want to eat his treats.
what should we do? he’s on a heat mat with me right now and we’re goinh to try and syringe feed him. what else should we do?
thanks
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Old 10-28-2018, 07:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You need to start syringe feeding him and get him to a vet asap. What's the lighting schedule and the temperature of the cage? Heat mats are not recommended as they can burn hedgies.
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Old 10-28-2018, 07:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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we’re going to try to get him into a vet tomorrow. he has a heating mat and always has, it’s never burnt him but recently he’s being going under his blanket and closer to it. and he comes out at around 9pm to sit with me for a couple of hours, but he’s always wanted to sleep when out.
also he’s 3 years old
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Old 10-28-2018, 07:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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oh and the temp is 27 degrees C in his cage
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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As squirtlesquirt already said heat mats as well as being a burn risk do not provide sufficient heat. Hedgehogs require the air around them to be heated not just the surface of the ground. Even cold spots in a cage can cause hibernation attempts. So when your hedgehog is meant to be active at night and leaves his heat mat he will not be warm enough or the temperature difference between where the heat mat is and the rest of the cage won't be consistent. If the rest of the cage is too cold, this will also make him not want to be active and just sleep which means he won't eat during the night. If the heat mat is not controlled by a thermostat this can then lead to burns.

You need to invest in a Ceramic heat emitter controlled by a thermostat or heat the entire room with a space heater.

Where is your thermometer probe where it reads 27C (on the heat mat or hanging in the centre of the cage to read the air temp)? if the air is 27C this means the area where the heat mat is will be more higher and too hot. If it's 27C on the heat mat then the air temp will be much lower.

If a hedgehog goes without food or eats very minimally for more than 24 hours they can quickly deteriorate and develop fatty liver disease. You need to syringe feed straightaway and make sure he is eating at least 20ml of food a day. If he's already deteriorated you need to get him to the vet.

Also if he feels cold you need to warm him up slowly using your body heat (skin to skin is best). Using a heat mat will be too sudden and can cause more issues, like send them into shock.

Hoping he gets better, please keep us posted.

Last edited by Yukidama's mama; 10-28-2018 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thank you you’ve been really helpful. we’ve warmed him up and fed him, he’s back in bed now as we’re going to sleep.
what heat lamps do you have that i could buy? he’s had a heat mat since i got him with no problems, but i recently moved and my new house is much colder so i think that may have triggered this. and the thermostat reader is on the heat mat, not in the air.
any recommendations on heat lamps would be really appreciated, tomorrow we’re going to see if we can get him into the vets to be seen.
thank you so much
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That's great to hear, glad he's managed to eat. Even if he only takes a small amount of food say 2ml you can wait two hours and feed again or 4mls wait 4 hours etc (don't have to do in one sitting if he refuses to eat it all). There's a syringe feeding guide on here if you do need help with it or want some more tips.

It depends where you live, but popular brands are zoo med and flukers. I'm in Japan so im using a japanese brand. Just make sure the fixture you buy is suitable to hold a ceramic heat emitter bulb (the bulb holder should also be ceramic to withhold the heat emitted from the bulb). It also doesn't emit any light, which is what you want as even red light heat lamps can disrupt their nighttime activity, which I learnt at the beginning ><. It also needs to be plugged into a thermostat which you set at your required temp and it will turn the CHE on and off as required (this avoids it overheating and keeps the temp comsistent), you may need two CHEs if your enclosure is big, to avoid any cold spots still. Look in the reptile sections for both the CHE and thermostat. Amazon is a good place to find both or if you've already got a thermostat which you used with your heat mat, most likely it can be used with a CHE fixture, just check what the maximum power output it can be used with eg 300 watts etc. Do you also have a digital thermometer in the cage? They're cheap to buy and really a must so you can monitor the temp (most standard thermostats don't display the actual temperature reading unless it's a more expensive one).

Let us know how it goes at the vets. Hoping he continues to improve

Last edited by Yukidama's mama; 10-28-2018 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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alfred passed away late this morning. i don’t know what it truely was, as up until last night he was completely fine and acting like himself.
thank you all so much for helping, he passed away in his sleep.
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batman2101 View Post
alfred passed away late this morning. i don’t know what it truely was, as up until last night he was completely fine and acting like himself.
thank you all so much for helping, he passed away in his sleep.
So sorry for your loss &#x1f622;
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm so sorry to hear he didn't make it, my condolences.
Rest peacefully Alfred ♡
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