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#1 (permalink) |
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I've been purusing the cage setups for a long time and have decided to build a C&C for Mila. She is getting to be a big hog (Over 400 g now, and a tad over 4 months old) and is outgrowing her Sterilite bin setup. I always intended for her to have a C&C when she was older.. but I thought I could hold off until the spring (my other reason being that I was concerned with retiaining enough heat).
Anyways, I have the supplies and had been holding off until after the holidays, because I was out of town and didn't want to bring a massive C&C setup anywhere, or have her transition too much.. so here I am. I'm also nervous about making the first cut in the Coroplast! haha.. anyone else feel this way? It was hard enough for me to find and transport.. i don't want to accidentally ruin the precious stuff! So, onto the main subject here: I've seen many C&Cs with a lid, but I'm not sure how necessary it is. Mila doesn't seem to be a climber.. but I guess I haven't really seen her be that active, or attempt to scale the slippery sides of her bins. If I make the coroplast walls 8 inches high, do I need a lid? Also, with a CSW, I think it will be higher than the Cubes. I've seen pictures of set ups that have made just a little allowance for the wheel, Is it necessary to make a lid with the CSW? Thanks!
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#2 (permalink) |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NC
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I don't use lids/tops on my C&C cages. I made the coroplast walls as tall as I could to prevent climbing, also I don't use igloos so there is nothing in the cage to use as a ladder to escape. My hedgies have their own room too so there is no other animals to worry about climbing in their cages either.
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http://www.carolinastormhedgehogs.com Carolina Storm Wheels, est. February 2010, over 10,000 sales to date, thanks for your support! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NS, Canada
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I put 8" coroplast around my C&C, with no lid. I do have a single C&C block on one corner, but that's because the corner buts against my sofa & it's more to stop things from falling in off the sofa than for her to climp out.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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I think a lot depends on the hedgie: Snarf's cage is homemade and three sides have 2.5" of wood, then 6" of mesh, then 1.5" of wood again. Very easy to climb - the mesh would make a perfect escape route.
He was housed in the cage when we got him and had been for all of his 1.5 years but I was pretty paranoid. We made sure the livingroom was as safe as we could make it when we set up his cage and just waited to see.... He has shown NO interest at all in trying to get out. When he's wandering around on the floor, he will s-t-r-e-t-c-h himself to try and scale things but has never tried in his cage. Dunno why....????
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#5 (permalink) |
Hooked on Hogs
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
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I am a huge believer in having a secure cage with a lid. Many hedgehogs are escape artists and we hear far too often of hedgehogs that never tried to escape before, escaping.
I had a 6 week old baby who I was weaning from mom. He escaped his 13" high bin. There was nothing in the bin but a hedgie bag and his small food and water dishes. He somehow managed to scale the sides of the bin.
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* * * Nancy * * * Retired from breeding Rescue contact for both the Hedgehog Welfare Society and the IHA Rescued over 70 (and counting) hedgehogs needing a new home http://freewebs.com/thehedgieden/ |
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#6 (permalink) |
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OK, for now I'm going to keep the walls 8" and without a second level, I've decided to go without a top.
On another note, I opened the cubes and completed assembling them.. when I realized that it wouldn't fit through the doorway ![]() ![]() ![]() Now I'm going to go start the coroplast... I'm a little nervous about my measurements. I've checked and rechecked.. but I'm wary about the connectors getting in the way.. or the actual thickness of the coroplast affecting the overall fit.
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